The “It Bag”
“Does a bag become an ‘It Bag’ because of its design, or because of the woman who carries it? If the Birkin wasn't associated with Jane Birkin's effortless cool, would it still be the world’s most expensive accessory?
(The term didn't formally exist until the 1990s, but the blueprints were laid decades earlier)
| Era | The Icon | The "Origin Story" |
| 1930s | Louis Vuitton Speedy | Originally a travel bag, the Keepall, it was scaled down in 1965 specifically for Audrey Hepburn. |
| 1950s | Hermès Kelly | Originally the Sac à Dépêches, renamed after Grace Kelly used it to hide her pregnancy from paparazzi. |
| 1955 | Chanel 2.55 | Named after its birth month, Feb '55, it was revolutionary for adding a shoulder strap, freeing women's hands. |
| 1960s | Gucci Jackie | Named after Jackie Kennedy, who was photographed with it so often that Gucci rebranded the "Fifties Constance" in her honor. |
| 1984 | Hermès Birkin | Born on a flight when Jane Birkin spilled her contents in front of Hermès CEO Jean Louis Dumas, they sketched a "roomy" bag on an airplane sick bag. |
| 1990s | Fendi Baguette | The first "true" It Bag of the era. Its fame was solidified by Carrie Bradshaw in Sex and the City. It's not a bag, it's a Baguette. |
| 2000s | Dior Saddle | John Galliano’s asymmetrical design became the face of "Logomania" and the early 2000s street-style explosion. |
What makes a bag a good investment?
In the world of resale, not all "It Bags" are created equal. Some are flash-in-the-pan trends, while others are Holy Grail assets.
➡️ Retention of the value
Professional resellers use the Comprehensive Luxury Appraisal Index for Resale (CLAIR) to track value. Hermès:Historically retains 100%–120% of its retail value. A Birkin has famously outperformed the S&P 500 and gold in certain decades. Chanel:Regular price hikes (sometimes twice a year) ensure that a bag bought today will likely cost 15% more in a boutique next year, propping up your resale value.
➡️ Scarcity vs Ubiquity
Manufactured Scarcity: Hermès limits production and requires a client relationship to purchase. This creates a secondary market premium. The death of an It Bag: When a bag becomes toopopular (ubiquity), it often crashes in value (e.g.the 2010s Mulberry Alexa or the Chloé Paddington)
➡️ Material and Condition
Neutral over Neon: Black, Gold (Tan), and Étoupe (Grey) hold value better than seasonal colours. Leather Choice: In the investment world, Togo or Epsom (Hermès) and Caviar (Chanel) are preferred over smooth lambskin because they resist scratches, maintaining Mint status longer.
The “BIG 3” worth your investment
If you are looking for styles that transcend the trend cycle and act as financial assets, these are the gold standard. Hermès Birkin/Kelly: The ultimate. Hardest to get, highest resale premium. Chanel Classic Flap: A price-hike powerhouse. If you bought one in 2010 for $2,850, it’s worth over $10,000 today. Louis Vuitton Never full: While not rare, its utility and constant price increases make it the most liquid asset in the handbag world it sells faster than almost any other bag.
History has shown us that a true 'It Bag' isn't just about a label it’s about a feeling of discovery. The icons of the past were defined by exclusivity and waitlists, the icons of the future are defined by authenticity and the women who carry them. At TIKORI, we don’t look back at what luxury used to be. We look forward to what it should be, impeccable craftsmanship, timeless silhouettes, and a design that feels like it was made for your story, not a showroom.
Retail Insights
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