LEATHER GUIDE

What is real leather

Leather is one of humanity's oldest and most versatile materials, bridging the gap between rugged utility and timeless luxury. From the intricate biological layers of a natural hide to the modern innovations of synthetic alternatives, understanding the composition of leather is the first step toward mastering its craft. Whether you are a designer selecting the perfect finish, a crafter honing your stitching technique, or a collector looking to preserve a prized piece, this guide provides the essential roadmap to the textures, tools, and techniques that define the world of leatherwork.

Not all leather is created equal. Most customers don't realise that Genuine Leather is actually a specific and often lower grade. 

  • Full Grain

    The highest quality, uses the entire grain of the hide. Develops a beautiful patina over time.

  • Top Grain

    The second-highest quality. The surface is sanded to remove imperfections. Pliable and consistent.

  • Genuine Leather

    The second highest quality. The surface is sanded to remove imperfections. Pliable and consistent.

  • Bonded Leather

    Scraps glued together with polyurethane. It looks like leather but won't last.

Tanning Methods | Science Meets Art

The way leather is processed changes its soul. Vegetable Tanned,Veg Tan: The old school way using plant tannins, bark leaves. It’s eco friendly, smells like a library, and ages beautifully. Chrome Tanned: Uses chromium salts. It’s faster to produce, resulting in softer, more colourful, and water resistant leather from day one.

How to spot quality in the wild

The Scent: Real leather should smell earthy and rich, never like plastic or chemicals. The Touch: Look for fat wrinkles or slight pore variations. Perfection is usually a sign of synthetic coating.The Edge: Check the cross section. Quality leather is one solid piece, not layers of fibre sandwiched together.

Longevity & Maintenance

At TIKORI LONDON, we use only the finest, carefully selected leathers. Leather is a natural material, it will evolve and gain character over time. To ensure your piece remains as beautiful as the day you bought it, we recommend following these care guidelines.

Daily Maintenance & Handling

Keep it Light: To preserve the elegant silhouette of your bag, avoid overfilling. Leather is supple and can stretch under pressure which may affect the stitching over time. Surface Care: Gently wipe your bag with a soft dry cloth regularly to remove surface dust and maintain its natural lustre. Avoid Sharps: Be mindful of sharp or metallic objects that may scratch the leather's smooth finish.

Moisture & Cleaning

Natural Drying: If your bag comes into contact with water, pat it dry immediately with a soft cloth. Always allow it todry naturallyin a cool, well ventilated space. Never use artificial heat sources such as radiators, hair dryers or irons as these will parch the leather and cause it to crack. Conditioning: Periodically use a high quality leather conditioner to restore texture, suppleness and shine. 

Storage & Protection

Shape Retention: When not in use, lightly stuff your bag with acid free tissue paper or a soft cloth to help it maintain its form. The Dust Bag: Always store your handbag in its dust bag. Keep it in a cool dry place away from direct sunlight to prevent fading.   

Cowhide

Best for Bags, belts, and heavy duty footwear. It is incredibly durable and holds its shape better than almost any other hide.

Sheepskin & Lambskin

Best for Gloves, jackets, and soft structured pouches. It’s buttery soft and much lighter than cowhide. While it's more delicate, the hand-feel is synonymous with luxury.

Suede vs Nubuck (the texture)

Nubuck: Created from the outer side of the hide (the grain side). It’s sanded down to a velvet like nap. Because it’s the outer layer, it’s tougher than suede.

Suede: Created from the inner split of the hide. It’s softer and more flexible but more porous and sensitive to stains

Specialised Finishes

Pebble Grain: A process where the leather is pressed with a heavy metal die to create a textured, pebbled look.The Benefit: It’s incredibly scratch resistant. Pull Up Leather: This leather is heavily treated with oils and waxes. When the leather is folded or stretched, the oils migrate, creating a beautiful lightening of colour. Saffiano Leather:A signature cross hatch pattern pressed into a wax coating. It is practically waterproof and very hard to scratch. 

What is PU Leather ? 

PU leather also known as synthetic leather or vegan leather is a man made material designed to mimic the look and feel of genuine leather. It is typically created by applying a polyurethane coating to a base material, such as polyester, nylon, or even shredded leather scraps. 

The Two Main Types: Fully Synthetic: Made entirely of a plastic base (usually polyester) coated with PU. It contains 0% animal hide.

Bicast Leather: A hybrid that uses a thin layer of real leather (split leather) at the bottom, topped with a thick layer of polyurethane.

 

PU vs Genuine leather comparison 

  • Durability

    PU Leather: Pair text with an image to focus on your chosen product, collection, or blog post. Add details on availability, style, or even provide a review.


    Genuine Leather:     Can last decades develops a patina.

  • Breathability

    PU Leather: Low, can feel hot or sweaty.


    Genuine Leather:     High, natural pores allow air flow.

  • Smell

    PU Leather: Chemical or plastic like scent.


    Genuine Leather: Distinctive, earthy leather smell.

  • Water Resistance

    PU Leather: Highly waterproof.


    Genuine Leather:     Absorbs water unless treated.

  • Maintenance

    PU Leather: Easy to wipe clean with a damp cloth.


    Genuine Leather: Requires conditioning to prevent drying.

The Benefits

(Pros) Affordability: Significantly cheaper to produce and purchase than animal leather. Consistency: Because it’s manufactured, the colour and texture are perfectly uniform without imperfections. Vegan Friendly: Most versions do not use animal products, appealing to eco conscious or vegan crafters.Variety: It can be dyed in any colour and embossed with almost any texture (croc, ostrich, smooth)

The Drawbacks

(Cons) Environmental Impact: While vegan the production involves chemicals and petroleum-based plastics that aren't biodegradable. Peeling: Over time, the plastic layer tends to crack and flake off from the backing, which cannot be repaired. Aging: Unlike real leather, which looks better as it gets older, PU leather looks its best on day one and degrades from there.

How to Spot PU Leather

The Edge: Look at the cut edge. PU leather often shows a fabric or mesh backing.The Pore Pattern: In PU, the pores are often a repeating, perfectly symmetrical pattern. Real skin is irregular. The Fingerprint Test: Press your finger into the material. Real leather wrinkles around the pressure point like skin. PU usually just compresses under your finger without radiating wrinkles.